Starter

Rinse clams in several changes of cold water and drain well
Place clams in a large pan with 500ml water, cover, bring to the boil and simmer until clams open (about 2 minutes)
Tip pan contents into a colander over a bowl, cool slightly, remove clams from shells and reserve a few empty shells; strain clam stock into a jug leaving grit behind
Heat butter in the pan and sizzle bacon until it starts to brown (3–4 minutes)
Stir in onion, thyme and bay leaf and cook gently until the onion is soft and golden (about 10 minutes)
Scatter over flour and cook into a sandy paste for 2 minutes, then gradually stir in the clam stock, milk and double cream
Add potatoes, bring to a simmer and cook gently until potatoes are tender (about 10 minutes)
Crush a few potato chunks against the side of the pan to help thicken while leaving most chunks intact
Stir through clam meat (and reserved shells if using) and simmer for 1 minute to reheat
Season with plenty of black pepper and salt to taste
Stir through chopped parsley just before ladling into bowls or rolls